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Diamond Shape

Diamonds come in many shapes with the round brilliant-cut being the most common. All the others are called fancy shapes: Oval, Princess, Radiant, Emerald, Pear, Heart, Marquise, Kite, Trillion, Baguette, Asscher, Cushion, Half Moon, Trapezoids. Deciding on a shape is the first step in the selection process and if you have some input from that special someone receiving the gift this could be very helpful. If not, maybe get some information from her friends.

	The round brilliant diamond is the most popular diamond shape and, because of the laws of supply and demand is the most expensive. Rounds make up the vast majority of diamonds found in engagement rings and are popular as stud earrings and in pendants.
	The oval is seen most frequently cut in the standard 58 facet brilliant pattern but can have a varying number of pavilion main facets ranging from 4, 6, or 8. Look for even well rounded ends with a full body having an optimal length to width ratio of 1.33-1.66. Ovals provide a bigger surface area than a round with the same carat weight and therefore are an excellent option for shoppers looking for the brilliance of the round but a bigger size for their dollar.
	The princess cut is called a square or rectangular modified brilliant in GIA grading reports. It may have either 50 facets (21 crown, 4 girdle, 25 pavilion) or 58 facets (21 crown, 4 girdle, 33 pavilion), depending on how the pavilion is cut. This cut is most frequently a square shape where the length to width ration is 1.0 to 1.1. The princess cut tends to be the smallest of the shapes for the same carat weight since the cut is basically an upside down pyramid with most of the carat weight in the pavilion or bottom of the stone.
	The emerald cut isn't a brilliant cut, it's called a step cut. Step cuts are comprised of larger facets which act like mirrors. The emerald cut has 58 facets (25 crown, 8 girdle & 25 pavilion). Because of the angle, size & shape of the facets, this cut shows less brilliance & fire (dispersion) than other brilliant cut diamonds. However, the emerald cut stone reveals a classic beauty & elegance not seen in other cuts. Because of the open & large facets, we recommend a higher color & clarity than you might consider for a brilliant cut stone because they are more likely to become visible at lower grades. The classic emerald has a length-to-width ratio of 1.50, the recent trend is toward the more square shape.
	The pear shape usually has the 58 facet brilliant pattern, but can be cut with different numbers of pavilion mains of 8, 7, 6 or 4 facets. In a pear, look for a well-shaped head and even shoulders with a length-to-width ration of 1.50 – 1.75. Pear-shaped diamonds work great for pendants and drop earrings.
	The heart shape is a brilliant cut, which can be modified so that the number of pavilion mains may be 6, 7 or 8. It is important to look for a perfectly symmetrical appearance where the lobes (top arches) are of even height and breadth and the overall shape pleasing to the eye. The length-to-width ratio should ideally be 0.98 – 1.02.
	The marquise is usually cut as an adaptation of the 58 facet standard brilliant (33 crown, 25 pavilion), the same as the round brilliant. However, the pavilion can be cut with 4, 6 or 8 pavilion main facets. The crown cut is sometimes modified in the marquise to form what is called a “French Tip,” where the bezel facet at the point of the stone is eliminated. The length-to-width ratio should be in the 1.75 – 2.25 range. Marquise diamonds frequently display a bow tie, so try to find a stone in which this is minimal or absent. The marquise has a very big surface area for the carat weight so is an excellent option if you want a big, long look for less dollars.
	The trillion cut was developed in the late seventies. The cut is an adaptation of the radiant cut but it is in a triangular shape. The trillion is a triangle that has equilateral sides and is combinations cut of the step cut and the brilliant cut diamond and when cut correctly have a wonderful brilliance. They are often cut shallow and often look large for their carat weight. Trillion diamonds are beautiful when flanking a center diamond, or in a more avant-garde piece as a center diamond. A matched pair also creates beautiful earrings.
	The baguette is a step cut style used frequently as side stones. Baguettes have unbeveled corner, usually only two rows of facets and may be rectangular or tapered. Like the emerald cut, the baguette does not have the sparkle of a brilliant-cut but has a classic beauty. Higher color and clarity are important because there are not facets to hide inclusions or body color.
Other Fancy Shapes
	The radiant cut is a patented name & cut also know as a cut-cornered, rectangular (or square) modified brilliant on GIA grading reports. It has 70 facets (25 on the crown, 8 on the girdle & 37 on the pavilion). The truncated corners help to minimize chipping. The Radiant cut diamond is considered the father of branded fancy cut diamonds with a birth over 20 years ago. Originally protected by patent, the design is now public domain. It's the first cut to have complete brilliant fact pattern applied to both the crown & pavilion and as such presents a much more dazzling & brilliant diamond than the emerald cut. The same ratio of 1:1.5 will provide the most pleasing emerald shape but the square shape has become very popular recently.
	In 1902, Asscher Diamond Co. patented a rectilinear diamond cut. Developed by Joseph Asscher, the squarish step cut’s deeply cut corners give it an almost octagonal outline. It features a small table, high crown broad step facets, deep pavilion and square culet. The Asscher cut was inspired by the table cuts of the Renaissance, however, it was a big departure form the brilliant cuts that dominated the1800’s and was a forerunner of the standard emerald cut. Because of its high crown and small table, the Asscher cut has more light and fire than an emerald cut.
	The cushion cut diamond was one of the most popular cuts of diamonds ever. For more than 70 years from 1830 to the turn of the century this was the diamonds cut. Sometimes referred to as a “pillow cut”, the cushion cut has an open culet (the bottom of the diamond) & a rectangular to square shape with rounded corners & a facet plan to give the diamond depth. The cushion cut diamond was cut for candle light. This is quite different from today’s diamonds which are cut for brighter denser electric light. The beauty of a cushion cut is the depth of the diamond. The facets allow the eye to travel into the diamond. It's a calmer more soothing cut than a modern cut & at a romantic candlelight dinner, the cushion cut is at its best.
	The half moon diamonds are used mainly for side stones and have the profile of half a round or half oval diamond. They look great with a rectangular center stone such as a princess, radiant or emerald because they have one straight side. Because of the rounded edge, half moon diamonds also work well with oval shaped stones.
	The trapezoid cut diamonds are used mainly for side stones and are cut in brilliant-cut or step-cut. The brilliant trapezoid looks great with brilliant cut rectangular center stones like radiant and princess diamonds. The step-cut trapezoids are usually seen next to emerald or Asscher cut center stones.
	The brilliant kite diamond is usually used for side stones but also make a unique pendant.